I was aware of Carnaval when I arrived in Spain–references to the famous event are all over Spanish TV and in newspapers. Carnaval is an event that occurs during February around the world, although the traditions at each event vary somewhat. Spain’s Carnaval festival is two weekend of dances and musical performances that offer commentaries on Spanish politics and society; chiringotas are a satirical performance group, while las comparsas are their more serious counterpart. Cádiz, the oldest city in Spain, is the host of the third largest Carnaval celebration in the world, after Brazil and Trinidad. I knew I’d need a costume and, according to my host mom, a sandwich dinner and a pair of comfortable shoes.
The day before the Carnaval day trip, a teacher from the school led me to a store in Sevilla filled with cheap costumes and vintage clothes, clearly frequented by people looking for Carnaval costumes. I settled on wearing a mask, not sure whether I wanted to commit to a more elaborate costume. I didn’t know how dressed up other people at the event would be, and didn’t want to overdress. When I arrived in Cádiz by bus the next evening, it was evident that I was one of the most underdressed. As we piled off the bus that had driven us from Sevilla two hours south to the beach town of Cádiz, we were greeted by masses of people dressed in elaborate costumes. Many groups of Spaniards wore brightly colored group outfits, all heading toward the city center. Although it immediately began to rain, people crowded the ancient streets of Cádiz, buying copas and tapas from restaurants that set up stands outside their establishments. Unsure about where to go, we followed the crowd to a huge open square in front of the Cádiz Catedral, where an enormous crowd of costume clad people were drinking and eating, talking, and wandering through the masses in crazy and colorful costumes.
We didn’t end up seeing any performances, which we realized happen mostly during the daytime component of the festival, but we were able to take part in a Spanish cultural event. It was very cool to get away from Sevilla for the day and experience such a cool moment with other Spaniards, as well as with fellow members of the LC Sevilla program. I’ll always remember Carnaval and I hope that someday I’m lucky enough to experience it again.
