Every day that we travel to and from class at the ISA we take either the “guagua” (public bus) or a “botero” (classic american cars that currently serve as shared taxis). Regardless of which you choose, the destination is always the “Playa Paradero.” This is essentially a four block open-air transportation stop lined by closely-packed vendors selling everything from plumbing hardware to plates of food. I love the Paradero because it is in constant motion. Eating lunch there this afternoon I was struck by the extent to which the daily feeding frenzy amplifies all of my favorite aspects of this space.
Sitting on a bench in the median strip between the opposing lanes of traffic one is instantly aware of the disorganized pedestrians flowing up and down the sidewalks. The entire area has a distinct odor that shifts as quickly as the sounds, while maintaining a balance between engine exhaust, the heat, dusty streets, freshly cooked food, a handful of heavily perfumed individuals and the sharp smell of gasoline. An inconsistent breeze surges along the cement and brings a short relief to those who recognize its work. Only once you’ve sat down and stopped searching can you truly begin to see. The movement never stops, but it ebbs and flows as stomachs are filled.
Botero drivers shout their destinations at potential passengers as they compete with other merchants advertising roasted peanuts and brooms. All of the restaurants serve their customers from windows. People circle these holes in the wall like sharks sensing a surfer. As one after another makes their strike you can see them pull away from the pastel painted walls with cheesy pizzas wrapped in printer paper and bowls of rice, beans and meat. If you walk the length of a single block you can buy churros, ice cream, fried bread balls and flavored ice. The prices are all in the local cuban peso, which represents a pittance compared to the convertible peso (pegged to the dollar). This means that as foreigners we can absolutely feast. $1 plates of grilled chicken, vegetables, rice, beans and eggs are served at numerous different windows, and the majority of local meals are washed down at the end with 4¢ coffees.
The crowds are split between those actively seeking to make money and those taking a well deserved break from it. Energy is conducted through this closely packed space in a similar way to how heat moves through molecules. This entropy increases to an eclipse around lunchtime. The old cars begin lining up, people begin their search for sustenance and connection takes off up and down the road like firecrackers. I love this place because of its motion, but taking a step away from the action allows you to appreciate this place in its entirety.