Forget your
American city’s average black-and-yellow taxis: Cuba has taxi system that would even give Uber a run for its money. But instead of a Toyota Prius’, nearly all Cuban communal taxis are vintage American cars that were imported before the revolution (more on this here). Cuban communal taxis run on pre-established lines with flat-fees. Cubans call them “boteros” or “máquinas.” These taxis generally cost about 40 cents in United States dollars. Extremely affordable and generally efficient for a foreigner like me, but costly for the average Cuban.
It is pretty easy to catch a botero. First, stand off the sidewalk into the street when you see a taxi coming. To flag a shared-taxi, you can simply point your finger out, with your arm casually erect. Or, after you learn them from locals, you can use established hand signals to signify which route you want.
Now, there is some basic etiquette when riding a botero. The first passenger sits in the from seat next to the driver. The car continues to fill from there. After you flag the car down, quickly double check the driver is driving the route you need to go and for as long as you need to go. The driver will generally drive off if the answer is no, or remain silent if yes. You’re lucky for a nod of the head.
Make sure you close the door softly, since maintenance is difficult and costly for drivers. Sometimes, especially to foreigners, the driver will remind incoming passengers by yelling “Suave! Suave!” as one enters the car. You see, the interior tends to be stripped down to the bare essentials. Most taxis have converted to diesel engines to save money on fuel. Many cars are missing door handles, windows. All lack seat belts.
Botero drivers are almost exclusively men. And they are almost always blasting reaggatón. They run all day and night, but it is hard to predict how hard it will be to find a taxi with space available. Sometimes you find a taxi immediately. Other times it takes a good 10 minutes. But waiting is part of the life in Cuba.