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The Life of a Surf Bum

The Life of a Surf Bum

May 12, 2015 By Stein Retzlaff

One backpack, one T-shirt, one swimsuit, two bro-tanks, a couple pieces of underwear, a wallet, a tube of sunscreen, a broken phone and a determined and adventurous attitude are essentially the components that have driven my Australian semester abroad thus far. The concept of being a ‘light-packer’ has truly been employed in many excursions throughout Oz. When given the opportunity of an independent research week, I had already known for weeks what I needed to accomplish in order to gain further knowledge on my research. The word ‘Surf’ pulsed in my mind and overwhelmed my previous thoughts. I knew what I needed to do, I knew how long I was going to do it for and I had a vague idea of where I was going to do it, NOTHING else.
I darted towards the door as I left the Brisbane YHA early Saturday morning praying that I wouldn’t miss my Greyhound on my first journey towards Byron Bay. I stock-piled 14 peanut butter sandwiches, a few apples and a couple juice boxes into my remarkably empty backpack in preparation for my ensuing adventure. Soon after, I found myself sitting on the Greyhound with thoughts of surfing racing through my mind with a sensational grin permanently sticking to my face. These vivid images completely and continuously clouded other highly important elements of my week, such as what I was going to do for accommodation, food and a mode of convenient transportation.
After arriving in Byron Bay, I continued my adventure and found myself walking along the bustling streets where hundreds of other backpackers lingered in every direction. It didn’t take long for me to tour most of the small town and I easily made productive conversations with fellow travelers.
The consequent day, I walked roughly three kilometers along Byron beach before it was suggested to me by a few beach patrons, that I should visit the lighthouse. So, I resumed my adventure and walked in the direction of the infamous lighthouse. During my walk, I was distracted countless times by the stunning beaches that littered the eastern coast. I stopped and spoke with a few surf instructors along the way and after exchanging some friendly conversation, they offered to let me use a surfboard, free of charge. I surfed at the most easterly beach on Australia’s mainland for about two hours. Then, I proceeded to finish my journey to the top of the lighthouse.
It was mid-afternoon now, and I made my way back into town. While in town, I was greeted by numerous backpacking organizations about scheduling upcoming trips. I was hesitant to purchase anything because it seemed too touristy and generic for my taste. I sought out a surf shop and spoke with an employee for a significant amount of time about where the best surf spots along the east coast would be. I was swiftly intrigued by an isolated surf spot three hours south of Byron Bay called, ‘Spot X.’ After hours of talking and planning, I booked another Greyhound to this ‘Spot X’ that would depart Byron early the next morning.
The next day, I jumped on another greyhound heading three hours south to an isolated surfing location, known as ‘Spot X.’ Once I arrived at ‘Spot X’ there were many other ambitious young foreigners who had dreams of learning to surf.
Throughout the next five days, my agenda was as follows: wake up at 5:45 am to be in the water by 6, I surfed for an hour and a half, had breakfast, sat on the beach with a couple surf mates for 30 minutes, went out surfing again for 2-3 hours, ate lunch, played beach volleyball or soccer, once I was sweaty enough I went surfing again for another 2 hours, ate dinner, had one last surf in the late afternoon for about an hour, then had a campfire and conversed with good friends at an occasional beach party. I went to sleep, and did the process over every day for the next five days.
The relationships I made through my surfing adventures sparked the idea for my Australian research paper. I listened to stories about an infamous surf gang that originated just south of Sydney, at Maroubra Beach. My jaw slowly sank to the floor as I heard stories about this brotherhood that created a notorious reputation for themselves with the surrounding communities and local law enforcement. I was immediately interested in researching more about the Bra Boys and thus, my research paper was formed. Needless to say, my independent research week was an experience I will never forget.

Filed Under: Australia Spring 2015

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