Lawrence and I went for a hike today. We found a bizarre building on the jetty that claimed to be a “Business Center” and decided to investigate. We walked in past the official desk and leather couches in the lobby to find a stairwell off to the right with a sleeping guard at its base. He barely stirred as we stomped past him on our adventure. Climbing the stairs, it became apparent that the building was almost entirely empty. While certain floors had piles of tiles or other construction material in the corners, other floors were simply abandoned. We worked our way to the top floor of the building where we were greeted with panoramic views of the capital.
This was the first time that I saw la Habana from above, and the city is gorgeous. Anyone who has been to Havana will mention the decay; the urban crumble. Last year the city lost three buildings a day due to neglect. There are nowhere near the necessary resources to maintain the city’s disappearing colonial splendor, and despite a UNESCO designation as a World Heritage Site construction over the past quarter-century has been limited. Most of the tallest buildings that you will find are international hotels and trade centers. The grey behemoth in this photo is the Melia Cohiba hotel. Standing at only twenty-three stories, it absolutely dwarfs the urban environment around it.
A lot of my experience here has been informed by a trail blazer mentality that depicts Cuba as a tourist gold mine teetering on the brink of accepting fully globalized development. I have no doubts that this skyline will change dramatically in the following two decades. As international investors flock to exploit this small island’s economy I fear that many parts of the country will unavoidably rise to meet them. This means more hotels, golf courses and beaches, but it could also mean more advanced transportation, better paying jobs and access to a long-awaited diversity of cuisine. Either way, I am viscerally aware of this impending change and it has made me all the more grateful to experience this space as it currently stands.