Tomorrow we will have been in Habana for four weeks which is incredibly hard to believe. Time passes in mysterious ways here and can be hard to track for reasons that are hard to identify and explain. However, although I’m struggling to measure my time here, I think that individually and as a group, we’ve both learned a lot and identified major challenges of life in Habana during our first month. Some reflections:
Waiting: I think “waiting” should be classified as a phenomena unique to Cuba. You wait in line to buy commodities like wifi cards. You wait at restaurants. You wait to hear back about plans. You wait for people because its normal to be late. You wait for buses and boteros. “Waiting” is vague and this explanation may not be very helpful but its been a big part of how I’ve experienced time. Because of “waiting,” afternoons and nights can disappear quickly. However, I think time spent waiting in Cuba has allowed be aware of my surroundings and appreciate the moment and place where I am. While waiting in Havana you can’t scroll through Instagram or Facebook on your phone. Instead you notice small, new things you wouldn’t have otherwise or speak to the people around you. Although it feels like time stops, you’re forced to interact and be engaged with your environment in ways that make days feel full and whole.
Transportation: Our ability to find ways to get around Havana is a good measure of how much we’ve learned in one month. My main form of transportation is definitely walking. Havana is certainly more of a bustling and busy city than I imagined and people are out walking everywhere at most hours. The streets are numbered and named in ways that make navigation very easy so one finds that almost anywhere is easily walkable. If the distance is too long for walking people take boteros. Boteros are independent drivers who pick up and drop off people throughout the city along a set route. These are different from taxis which are state owned and more expensive. There are collective and independent boteros so you can get your own car which is more money or hop in with others. We’ve been told that these days boteros are especially hard to come by as many drivers are on strike against the state’s reduction of the standard rate from 10 to 5 pesos. Nevertheless, they are still around and we rely on boteros to get to el ISA a couple times a week. Lastly are the gua guas, buses. Before coming to Cuba and upon arriving we were warned about the dangers of getting robbed on these crowded buses and the exhaustive time spent waiting for them since there is no published bus schedule. While the lack of schedule does make things tricky and they certainly are crowded and sweaty spaces, if you’re aware of your surroundings and not in a rush, the buses get you where you need for very cheap prices. Learning and negotiating for fair prices has probably been the most challenging part of public transport but in general, I’m finding that it is easy to travel around Havana.
Meeting Cubans: There are a lot of very friendly people in Cuba. It feels natural meeting Cubans on the Malecón or at ‘hip’ venues like la Fábrica or striking up conversation with botero drivers or people on the street while getting wifi. Julie has also introduced us to many of her interesting and kind friends who join us on activities and are eager to talk with us. However, forming friendships at ISA proves to be more challenging. It can be a little intimidating to strike up conversation with other students in Spanish, especially when they are very cool and attractive art students! I think making more efforts to meet people will be a big focus of our energy in the weeks to come.
These are some very practical reflections about studying abroad in Habana which definitely do not capture the colors and vivacity of the city, the confusing and compelling monuments, systems, and buildings, or the kindness we’ve experienced from our host families. I don’t think my reflections can do this month justice but I hope to improve upon them in the future. So far, my time in la Habana has been fascinating, fun, confusing, somewhat challenging, and exciting. I’m feeling very lucky to be here and learning so much and am looking forward to the rest of the semester’s experiences.