Cultural symbolism is an aesthetic technique employed by gentrifying restaurants. The introduction of these cultural symbols function as strategies of enticement intentionally targeting higher economic populations while disregarding prior resident aesthetics and personal symbols. Northeast Portland demonstrates gentrified neighborhoods through the remaking of attractive social spaces via trendy restaurants. Therefore, as a means of exemplifying this technique, we analyzed Northeast Restaurants’ online profiles by seeking out their “about” or “story” sections on their website. Based on the five restaurants chosen: OX, Beast, Podnah’s Pit, The Tin Shed, and Pine State Biscuits the following themes were identified as common approaches for marketing: Community, Geographical Knowledge, Humble Roots, “Ethical Eating” and Creative Craftsmanship.
Community
The theme of Community was present in the restaurant webpages, specifically relating to bringing community into the restaurant and additionally connecting to the surrounding community. For example, Beast markets their restaurant environment as a “preservation” of intimacy, stating that their atmosphere provides family-style suppers with only 24 seats and communal tables. The Tin Shed aims to provide a “warm sense of community” for those who come into the restaurant. On a larger scale, the Tin Shed emphasizes their connection to a network of “farmers, ranchers and organizations”. For example, they collaborate with the Urban Farm Collective who “works to bring neighbors together to transform vacant lots into neighborhood food gardens for the purposes of education, community building and improving food security.”
Geographical Knowledge
The theme of Geographical Knowledge broadly encompases statements about the origin or tradition of food preparation and influence on the style of the restaurant. Podnah’s Pit markets its slow smoking barbeque technique as an authentic practice original to Texas. This form of marketing utilizes geographical knowledge as a means of connecting the consumer to the dishes served. The Ox alludes to pastoral ideals by evoking imagery that inspired the name for their restaurant; “OX pays homage to the work animal that pulls the plough, tilling the soil and replenishing the land’s ability to produce its fruits, vegetables, and grains.” This connects the restaurant and the food to the land, and parallels Ox’s geographical inspiration of the “wood-fired grilling tradition of Argentina”. The Pine State Biscuits business markets their space as having “old-style Southern goodness and modern restaurant professionalism” along with “portland foodie sensibility”. This appeals to both the rustic idealism of southern comfort food, that is apparently very trendy in these up-and-coming areas, and the locality of Portland food culture.
Humble Roots
Humble roots were signified by restaurants promoting simplistic practices or being a generally down-to-earth establishment. Beast is notoriously known for its numerous recognitions and awards with regards to high-quality, gourmet eating. Though a contemporary profile of this intimate restaurant, the historical progression of its success illustrates the founder, Naomi Pomeroy, as a hard working woman that employed only three other individuals during the startup of the restaurant. Additionally, Beast’s narrative stresses the fact that they cooked on electric induction burners for three years all the while creating delicious gourmet foods. Similarly, Pine State Biscuits emphasizes their humble roots on their “about” page by referencing that they started with an outdoor bakery at the farmer’s market. And now, even with multiple locations in Portland, they evoke a simplistic sound, marketing themselves as moving from the market to a place “where folks can enjoy a wholesome breakfast or lunch 7 days a week, rain or shine.” Not only does Pine State Biscuits market their website humbly, but the founders, three men, present themselves in a relatable manner, introducing themselves as “the biscuit boys,” overall a very playful and modest title for these successful business owners.
“Ethical Eating”
By alluding to cultural symbols of health and sustainability being better for the environment and for the body, the appearance of providing “ethical eating” is developed on these websites. The Ox advertises “ethical” ingredients to their food, emphasizing that their meat and fish is local and their produce is seasonal. Pine State Biscuits tailor to “ethical eating” by claiming to be “using only the freshest local ingredients, often straight from the farm”. The Tin Shed fully embraces the notion of “ethical eating” by not only referring to “healthy” and sustainable practices (local, organic, free-range, fresh, wholesome are all words that appear on their website), but going beyond nutrition to talk about their restaurant philosophy: “it’s not just the destination, but the journey.” The Tin Shed takes a unique ethical approach to advertising their dining experience, claiming that not only does caloric energy travel through food, but so does “spiritual energy.”
Creative Craftsmanship
Craftsmanship is highly emphasized in trendy niche marketing. This drive to show creativity and hands-on involvement in creating the food and atmosphere of the restaurant appears on various restaurant web pages. The Ox caters to the “creative class” that Sullivan and Shaws’ article refers to. They offer “a friendly and comfortable neighborhood restaurant with an energetic vibe and creative menu designed to appeal to the palate of the Pacific Northwest.” Podnah’s Pit also attempts to attract the “creative class” through promotional illustrations pertaining to barbeque smoking techniques, stating that they use “honest oak hardwood in the firebox.” This intentional statement points to the importance of not only engaging the “creative class,” but doing so from a rustic and nostalgic approach. The Pine State Biscuit website claims to be “Handbuilt in Portland Oregon,” also subscribing to the trendy restaurant ideal of displaying craftsmanship.